After a bit on an adventure getting onto the train, we made our way to Vernon, a small village close to Giverny (with the nearest train station). At Vernon, we took the advice of a website I had visited and rented bikes from one of the pubs across the street. If you ever have the chance to visit Giverny (which we highly recommend), we suggest that you get bikes. It is really the best way to experience these two charming villages.
Picturesque church near the start of the bike path
Biking away from Vernon, we soon found the bike trail leading to Giverny. But, first a quick stop at an amazing Boulangerie-Patisserie right at the trail head. Armed with warm cheesy bread (filled with more cheese and ham) and the best Pain au Chocolat, we started down the path. Eager to take it all in, we meandered through various off-shoots, small windy roads, through small collections of homes and simply charming bed and breakfasts. Soon enough, we entered Giverny, via the Rue de Claude Monet where we were giddy over the sweet shops, galleries, terraced cafes, bright flowers and people happily strolling (and biking) along.
charming house
Towards the end of the Rue sits Monet’s home and gardens, now open to the public. Making our way through the extraordinarily large gift shop (which we later learned was formerly the studio that Monet had built for the painting of the large Water Lily murals), we entered the first of the perfectly kept gardens. The conservation society has done a remarkable job of preserving both the gardens and the house, which are all kept exactly as they were when Monet lived there (in the house, you could actually compare the current presentation with photographs of Monet in the house—exact matches). Towards the back of the property are the Japanese Gardens, where many of Monet’s works were painted. Walking along the paths, you could just imagine Monet standing at his easel and painting the scenes that are so familiar to us. Despite the crowds of people, you could really feel the serenity of the gardens and imagine how Monet could come to be so inspired by them. (NB: you could not take pictures inside the house...which does not explain why I have none of the outside...)
Monet's water gardens.
If you look hard, you can see the Japanese bridge in the center
After peeling ourselves away from these magnificent gardens, we stopped for lunch at a great garden café, then made our way to Monet’s grave (just off the Rue de Claude Monet) before returning to Vernon and making another stop at the Patisserie—this time for macaroons, Chantilly cream and strawberry éclairs, and chocolate éclair. Taking our stash of treats to go, we found a little spot on the bank of the Seine and enjoyed the surroundings, these sweet treats, and the antics of a 5 year old French boy who was fascinated by these English speaking foreigners with bicycles!
Monet's grave
Finally, before heading back to the train, we biked around Vernon to see the medieval alleys, the half-timbered houses, and majestic church and Hotel de Ville--an absolutely charming village!
Gothic Cathedral in Vernon
Giverny was, without question, my favourite part of our Paris trip. You absolutely must go if you are ever nearby!
I am salivating reading about the cheesy bread filled with cheese and ham, along with chocolate yummy goodness...and then to see Monet's gardens. WOW. i'm feasting here in sweltering st louis thanks to you dear friend. loved seeing you pedaling along the street. what a magical time you and joe are experiencing. i'm so happy to partake of it virtually
ReplyDeleteWhat an exquisite post this is. Thanks for sharing such an idyllic experience.
ReplyDeleteDefinitely making sure Scotty and I get out to Giverny when we're in Paris next. I can't believe we didn't go! Thanks for the inspiration.
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