Paris: Parks

As much as I loved all the famous sights of Paris, one of my favourite things about being in that city were the incredible parks. Paris has so many lovely parks. They vary is size and landscape but each one is well loved and greatly visited. Especially when the weather was as bright, hot and beautiful as when we visited.

During our stay in Paris, we tried to take in as many parks as possible, though two parks quickly became favorites: The Luxembourg Gardens and Buttes-Chaumont.

The Luxembourg Gardens are right down the street from Joe’s school and are quintessential French gardens. Perfectly landscaped, with sculptures, fountains, and green space throughout. It’s also home to tennis courts, pony rides, bandstand and the Luxembourg Palace. While I loved this park as a whole, there were a few aspects that particularly captured my heart.

At this large fountain, children can float these small sailboats. They are not motorized; rather, the child is given a long reed stick with which to gently prod the boat along.

Fountain in Luxembourg Gardens

Miniature sail boats

At this pavilion, groups of people gather for games of chess! It’s absolutely fantastic to watch. While most of the participants were older men, there was a fabulous range of ages and “looks.” Everyone seemed to have such an enthusiasm for the game and crowds would often form around the two players watching.

Chess games in action!

And, really who wouldn’t fall in love with a park full of sights like these:

Flowers and Sculpture in Luxembourg Gardens

Crowds enjoying music at the Bandstand

(Luxembourg Gardens)

A couple dancing at the Bandstand

(Luxembourg Gardens)

Luxembourg Palace

Gardens in front of the Luxembourg Palace

My other favourite park was out of the main tourist area; this did not diminish the crowds but did give a much more authentic Parisian feel. The Buttes Chaumont is a park we only discovered because it was just around the corner from our flat. Some of the best features of this park are the large hill in the centre of the island, the stream that runs throughout the park and the large waterfall hidden in a small cave. All are beautiful and….every aspect is man-made! Nothing in this part is naturally occurring which, strangely, doesn’t detract from the beauty. Every time we went to the Buttes-Chaumont it was packed full of people picnicking, sun-bathing, taking pony rides and walking the paths. There was also a darling, traditional puppet theatre for the children.

Picnicking Parisians!

(Our favorite picnic spot)

The Waterfall

Besides these beauties, we enjoyed several other gardens and parks, such as The Tuilerie, a beautiful space is just outside the main plaza of the Louvre and was once part of the Tuileries Palace. My favorite part about this garden were the sculptures (some by the likes of Rodin!) spread throughout. I still can't get over priceless statues displayed in a public place like that. I think it's fabulous! (Click here to see a Pissarro painting of the Tuileries and here to see one by Manet).

Entry Gate to the Tuileries

The main fountain in the Tuileries A summer carnival set up in a far corner of the garden

The Place des Vosages: This sweet little square garden is the centre of a set of buildings--one of which was the one time home of Victor Hugo. After a lovely visit to his home and the associated museum, we enjoyed a splash in the fountains and a rest on the lawn.

Looking onto one of the surrounding buildings

It seems that no matter what day, or time of day, you happen into a park you will be greeted by scores of people also enjoying the surroundings. And, a main activity in the parks seems to be picque-niques (picnics)! Wanting to take in the culture as much as possible, we decided to enjoy a few picnics ourselves, in parks and other fun outdoor areas.

The Champs de Mars is the park surrounding the Eiffel Tower. Along with our friends, Ian and Lauren, we enjoyed a picnic dinner, followed by cards before it got dark and we were able to see the tower all lit up!

Champs de Mars around 6:30pm

Champs de Mars around 9:00pm

Look at all the people!

Also near to our flat, was the Canal St. Martin. During the daytime, this waterside was pretty empty save for a few walkers and bikers on their way to a shop, market, or work. But, this place really comes alive at night, with people laughing, picnicking, playing bocci-ball and table tennis and just enjoying a very festive atmosphere. Not wanting to miss out on this, we enjoyed a great evening with our friends Josh and Alicia along the Canal one night.

Alicia, Joe and Josh along the Canal

Picnics along the Seine seem to be quite popular and we joined the crowds with a few evening meals along the banks of the River. One of the most interesting nights, though, was when we met up with a group of friends a bit further down the Seine for a picnic and dancing! Sadly, none of us were brave enough to jump into the dancing, but we did enjoy the music and watching others participate (apparently, this Dance en Plein Air is a nightly event!)

Dancing

The Music Makers

Spectators

Joe, Lauren, Simon, Marilyn, Ian, Alicia and Josh

[fun side note, we didn’t actually know Simon, Marilyn or Andy (not pictured above) before this trip. As we were making our way through the Ryan Air boarding line one our way to Paris—at 6:30am—we noticed Simon and Marilyn whom we recognized from New College. They were headed to Paris for a short vacation and so joined us in line and we enjoyed chatting throughout the whole flight with them. When we landed we happened upon Andy in baggage claim and the 5 of us made our way into Paris—1.5 hours on bus and metro—together. After a day of travel and dinner that night, we were so happy to have made these new friends!]

New friends after a great first day in Paris

Joe, Simon, Marilyn, and Andy

I think I’ve said this before, but one of my favourite aspects of the European culture--which seems to be consistently true throughout our travels—is the less harried, hurried way of life. Don’t get me wrong, Europeans work hard, but that workaholic tendency, the long hours in the office, the constantly rushing way of life that is so normal in the US just does not seem to exist. Sure, there are workaholics everywhere, but it just isn’t the norm. People in Europe take time to enjoy others, to enjoy their food, to enjoy their surroundings and--for me anyway--no place was that more evident than in the parks. It’s been educational for me to learn to slow down and take things in. It’s a welcome change and I don’t at all mind the chance to practice in places like these!