Amsterdam

NB: The cold, coupled with fatigue, significantly reduced my picture taking interest; apologies for the lack of images to accompany this post)

Since our flight was cancelled, we decided to get creative and find an alternate way home. When we were originally planning our trip, we had wanted to go to Amsterdam, but decided it was too much to fit in. So, when we realized the cheapest and quickest way home was through that city, we were so pleased with the extra bonus of being able to spend a day and night there.


We really did only get to do a short tour of the city, but it was beautiful. I loved the canals cutting across the city and down streets, and there were some really stunning buildings. The snow covered walks, the Christmas decorations and the cold air made it even more lovely.


Shortly before we needed to leave for the ferry, we made our one and only tourist stop in the city: the Van Gogh museum. The entry fee was a bit exorbitant, but it is well worth a visit. They have a remarkable collection of the artist's works from across his career, some very well known and others rather obscure. They were organized by the periods of his life and career and it was really fascinating to see his style and compositions change over the years.

Our short stop in Amsterdam whetted my appetite for this region of the world, and I definitely think we'll want to go back and explore more.

Ghent

On Sunday, despite the snow, we headed to Ghent to visit another of Belgium's gems. Ghent is a lovely city as well, but I didn't fall in love with it like I did with Bruges. Still, it had it's charms and we thoroughly enjoyed the day.

Hundreds (thousands?) of bikes outside the train station

Sunday seems to be a quiet day in many European cities, and Ghent was no different. There were very few people out and about when we alighted from the train and it was really nice to have a quiet walk through the sleepy, snow covered streets.

Our first stop was a walk through a large city park, to an art gallery where we were hoping to see some original Peter Paul Reubens (one of Joe's favorite artists). The park was a fun detour, as there were a number of people sledding down little hills and enjoying the winter weather. The art museum was great too--beautiful art and a nice escape from the cold.

From there, we headed into the town centre (note to future travelers: take the bus from the train station). Coming into the old town, you cross a large bridge over a canal. The sight welcoming you to the old town is breathtaking.




After meandering our way through chocolate shops, the Belfry, and several magnificent churches, we decided to get out of the cold and took a tour of the Castle. It was an interesting tour, as it included visits to the old dungeons and a museum of torture. Pretty gruesome stuff, actually. Still, it was a beautiful building and I loved walking through the various rooms and imagining people living and working there.

View of the Belfry from the Castle

Alms Houses

Dusk in Ghent

Before leaving Ghent, we enjoyed hot drinks at a little canal side cafe. Despite the cold weather, we were tempted by the heating lamps, the chairs covered in heavy blankets, and the inviting wool covers for patrons and sat outside. We were rewarded with marvelous views of the sunset and the early evening snow fall (and, really cold hands and feet).

Bruges

I'm realizing I never really finished blogging about our trip in December...seeing as we've got another trip on the calendar in a few weeks, I figured it is time to rectify that situation...

A day trip to Bruges was on the itinerary for Saturday, so we got up early, walked to the station, and caught a short train to this sweet, canal based city. Bruges is one of those European towns that just evokes images of charm whenever you hear it spoken of. It is a special city as most of it's medieval architecture is still intact and the entire city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While it is fairly "touristy," we were not disappointed by our time spent here and could have, quite easily and happily, stayed another day.


Our visit started with a short stroll from the station to the Beguinage, along the Minnewater, a canalized lake often referred to as "The Lake of Love."

The Minnewater (snow covered) and surrounding buildings.

Canal coming from the Minnewater,
towards the Beguinage and City Centre

Our first stop was to the Beguinage, the peaceful home of the Bruge Beguines for over 700 yeas. It was founded in 1245, it was the home of religious lay women (Beguines) until 1937 when it became a monestary for the Benedictine Sisters who still live and worship there. The church on the estate was built in 1604, after the earlier church was burned in a fire; most houses dates to the 16th and 17th centuries; and the entrance gate is dated to 1776 (see the photo below). We read, whiel there, that the homes have also been used to house women in need over the years. This was perhaps the part of the story that tugged at my heart the most--I loved thinking of this beautiful, serene setting being used to provide refuge for vulnerable, hurting women.


After leaving the Beguinage, we crossed the bridge and re-entered the bustling world of Bruges. Our short walk to the city centre brought lots of sights (gorgeous building), sounds (horses drawing carriages), tastes and smells (chocolate!!). It was sensory heaven.

Restaurant decorated for Christmas
This is someone's house. Or, more accurately my new dream home.

Old St. John's Hospital is a stunning piece of architecture, conveniently situated on a canal. The oldest documents concerning the hospital are from 1188, and it seems most of the building was constructed in medieval times. It was used as a hospital up until the 1978 and is now a museum.

Old St. John'sHospital, which is seated on a canal.

Houses on the canal, across from the hospital.

Bruges is home to several amazing churches: The Basilica of the Holy Blood, St. Salvator's Cathedral, and Church of Our Lady, to name a few. Only Joe made it into the Basilica of the Holy Blood before it closed (he said it was beautiful) and we loved St. Salvator Cathedral as well. But, the Church of Our Lady is the one I'll never forget. As the brochure so aptly states, "this church is a work of ART. Its beauty overwhelms you."

Most notably, this church possesses and displays a Madonna of Michelangelo, dated to 1504. It was brought to Bruges, from Italy by a Bruges merchant and was stolen, several times by French (1794) and German (1944) occupying forces.

We were also quite enthralled by the tombs of graves in front of the High Altar. Two tombs, one of Mary of Burgundy and the other of Charles the Bold are remarkably ornate and beautiful. Just behind them are three exposed graves, which have been beautifully painted with symbols of eternal life. The central grae was for Mary of Burgundy, and there is an inscription that states the heart of her son (Philip the Handsome, father of emperor Charles V) was held there in a small box (which is still there). Several other, similar, graves are in a side chapel and are equally beautifully painted.

Mary of Burgundy's Tomb

Angel swinging incense

Back on the lively streets of Bruges, we continued our walk along the charming streets before being met by an unexpected Christmas parade featuring several Mary's, the wise men, and a bell-playing man.

Two random street performers (what is the instrument on the left?)

Bell Player

The colorful city centre is one of my favorites, so far. Around three sides of the square are colorful, well preserved buildings now used as restaurants, cafes, and shops. In the centre, during this time of year, was an open air ice skating rink. And, to one side, grandly looming over the square is the 83 metre high bell tower (click here for a better picture and some information).

The Grote Markt

The Bell Tower/Belfry

Just past the Grote Markt, is the City Hall, on the Burg Square, right next to the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The City Hall is an amazing and intricate piece of Gothic architecture that dates to the 1300s. It's stunning.


Behind the City Hall, and across a canal, is the old fish market, now used as a venue for local artists to sell their creations. We've taken to "collecting" a piece of art on each of our travels and were thrilled to find a local artist (born and raised in Bruges) who does really beautiful etchings of various Bruges landscapes. He took us through each one and pointed out where they were done, telling us stories about each place. After debating which of his many lovely pieces we were going to buy, we selected one which will be a lifelong reminder of this beautiful city and this charming man.

Looking back on the Belfry

After a delicious snack and warm drink by a roaring fire, we decided to make our way (slowly) back to the train station. Although the day began sunny and clear, it soon started snowing and we got to enjoy a stroll through the quiet streets, along the canals, as the snow fell. Talk about romantic.

Electrabel Nights

After our day in Bruges, we decided to make a stop in the centre of Brussels to visit their Christmas market. I had done a little searching beforehand and discovered that on Saturday nights, there was a special performance and light show, in addition to the usual festivities. This year, Elise Caluwaert, a Belgian soprano, performed several pieces, accompanied by some very interesting dancers.



Following Ms. Caluwaert's performance, which was really very good, despite the odd dancing, there was an incredible laser light show. I was a bit skeptical at first, but really, it was mesmerizing. I managed to get a bit of video once I thought of that option. It was pretty incredible. Magical, even.



And, if you'd like to see more, check out this link.

Leuven

My first stop in Belgium was in the medievil city of Leuven. Joe conferenced here last fall and loved it and was adamant that I not pass by the chance to see Leuven for myself. So, while he was busy presenting a paper in Louvain-la-Neuve, I roamed the streets of Leuven and took in this charming city on my own. It did not disappoint.

After a pretty walk from the train station, down cheerily decorated streets lined with bright, bustling shops, my first stop in Leuven was the quaint town centre where the Stadhuis (Town Hall, built between 1439 and 1463) stood quite impressively. The intricacy of the stone work reminded me of Notre Dame in Paris and I loved seeing this majestic building all lit up, later in the day, for Christmas.


My walk through Leuven took me by some beautiful old churches...

St Peter's Church, dating back to 986 and significantly damaged during WWII

St. Michael's Church

It was really cold during this trip, so I used the excuse of the cold weather to stop in a little cafe/hut for what turned out to be the.best.hot.chocolate.ever. seriously. imagine pure melted chocolate (the good stuff), mixed with thick, hot cream (also, the good stuff). Now, you may be imagining something a few steps inferior to what I actually tasted.

After that delicious interlude, I found myself on this charming little path:


I then meandered through the streets of Leuven, attempting to follow my map, before finally finding the Groot Begijnhof (the Great Beguinage) where unmarried, religious woman lived in a community devoted to prayer and helping those in need. They were not, however, nuns and took no formal orders. This particular Beguinage apparently dates back to the 13th centurty and was really interesting to walk through as it is really a small village within the larger city of Leuven. It seems completely self contained and it is easy to forget the busy streets of Leuven just beyond the walls of the Beguin.





My last stop was back in the city centre at the Oude Markt, a pretty little street that is apparently busy with students dining and debating outside during the warmer months.


On my way back to the train station, I decide to make a small detour to check out the Christmas market. What a treat! I am so glad I stopped. This particular Christmas market was by far the best one I came across on our trip and I just loved it. It was so charming and festive. There was great Christmas music (with live musicians at times), and a very pretty set up. My favorite part, however, that the very centre of the market was a small "wooded" area that you could enter through a particular gap in the trees. The path lead you through a small village of log cabins showing various rooms all ready for Christmas and St. Nicholas' visit, who was himself hanging out in one of the cabins.





Leuven is a charming little city and I would definitely recommend the short train ride to visit, should you ever be in Brussels.

Stranded!

In December, Joe attended a conference in Belgium to present a paper. As with most of Joe's conferences, we made this one into a trip for both of us to enjoy. Joe flew out on Wednesday evening, with the plan for me to follow on Thursday and we would both come home on the Monday.

As you may remember, however, there was quite a bit of snow in Europe in December which I was in love with. In love with until it began to cause quite a lot of drama in airports across the continent and the UK and that chaos posed some potential disruption to our travel plans. For the entire week leading up to the trip, we wondered, would we be able to go on our trip? Wednesday came and Joe made it to Belgium without incident (easy peasy, lemon squeezy, as one of my Sunday School kids would tell me). I too made it to Belgium the next day but not without enduring what seemed to be the longest, slipperiest, fish-tailing-est landing and journey to stop I have ever experienced, all in near white-out conditions. Seriously, people on the plane were so quiet and everyone kept looking at each other with nervous, wide eyes. I still really cannot believe they landed the plane.

But, landed we did and I eventually made the bus then train then taxi journey to the hotel where I met Joe and from where we enjoyed three perfect days in Belgium (more on this on a later post). Somewhat naively, we thought all travel drama was behind us.

Monday morning, however, we woke early to check out and make our way to the airport. I went to check in online only to discover that the airport was closed and the flight canceled. Not good. Because we fly the cheap airline, there aren't that many flights available. The next flight was 60 hours later and more snow was predicted every day--meaning we could easily miss that flight and be stuck in Brussels until Christmas Eve, when the next flight was scheduled. We quickly looked into other options--other airlines and the nearest airport. All no-gos. The main Brussels airport eventually closed as well and flights were well over 500. So, we got creative and came up with the following (surprisingly affordable) plan home:

• Walk to Brussels North Train Station
• Take train from Brussels to Amsterdam Central
• Spend evening and next day in Amsterdam
• Take speed boat ferry from Amsterdam to IJMuiden (small island near Amsterdam)
• Take overnight, large ferry from Amsterdam to Newcastle, England
• Take bus from Newcastle port to Newcastle Train Station
• Take train from Newcastle to Edinburgh (after happily discovering that trains are, in fact, still running from Newcastle to Edinburgh.
• Gratefully accept ride home to flat from concerned friend with car (who will patiently and kindly wait at the station when the train ends up being 45 minutes late due to snow delays).
  

If you were counting, that was 8 steps, and included all modes of transport, except for our originally intended: foot, bus, car, train, and boat. And, we arrived home only 51 hours after we were originally meant to return! It was all a bit dramatic, but honestly, we couldn't have been happier with the outcome: we never got stuck in an airport, we got to see another city, and had a relatively leisurely journey home. More on our wintry holiday to come....

Family Time

On Boxing Day, the day after Christmas, I made a short trip back to America, to see my family for a few days. Joe and I agreed, when we moved, that we would likely take one trip back to see family while we were here. As Christmas approached, I felt like I was ready to make the trip and was eager to see my family (I hadn't seen my sisters, brothers-in-law, or niece in nearly a year and a half). Joe and I talked about it and decided, for a variety of reasons, that we would make our trips back home separately--I would go after Christmas and Joe will go at a later date that best suits him and his family.

While I was sad not to have Joe with me and disappointed not to see the Riveras, it was really nice to spend some time with my family. We didn't do a ton--ate lots of delicious food, played some serious wii, hiked, and had good conversation. Highlights of the trip included some mii creating on the wii, a girls' pajama party (during which, when the men-folk returned prior to our movie ending, my niece kindly requested the three men go to the store for "something that will take you an hour to get"), a wintry hike, and dancing on the lawn of the Masonic Memorial on New Year's Eve (thankfully, no video of that).

Check out this sweet girl. I miss her tons and loved getting some quality time with her.


An extra treat on this trip was my dear friend Cheryl was able to come for an afternoon visit. Cheryl was one of my first friends at JMU and has been a really good friend ever since (we're talking a 14 year friendship). I have not seen her since her wedding in the fall of 2008 and have never met her incredibly beautiful little boy (though, I have seen him on Skype). It was an even more exciting treat because this beautiful friend is expecting her second baby and I got to see her pregnant for this first time. Such fun.


This visit was so good for my heart. Such a sweet time with my family and my dear friend. Thanks to them all for making it happen!